Ender 3 feeder assembly free download.Ender 3 Pro: Initial Setup and Recommended Prints
Follow RB42 on the Socials.30 Enhancements to Ender-3 – Creality 3D
3 Product introduction 4 Equipment parameters Basic Parameters 5 Spare parts 6 1. Installation of Z-axis limit switch kit and Z-axis profiles 7 2. Install Z-axis motor kit and t-type screw 8 3. Install pneumatic joint, XE-axis kit and synchronous belt 9 4. Install extrusion kit, Z-axis passive block 10 5. Install X-axis Tensioner 11 6. Ender-3 3D Printer Instructions for assembly. a. Remove the parts from the box and remove any tape and padding from the parts. Inspect the parts to make sure they were not damaged in shipment. b. Check the items on List 1 and List 2. The wiring harness of component (Ba) and component (N) has already been. As mentioned earlier, the plastic feeder assembly mounted on the Ender-3 is a bit impressive. This all-metal feeder assembly is an original MK8 extruder made of aluminum and is a major upgrade to the cheaper plastics that come with most Corey 3D printers.
Ender 3 feeder assembly free download.Ender 3 extruder feeder assembly spring tension fix by BlueSGL – Thingiverse
Ender-3 Pro assembly instruction_EN V Download Ender-3 Pro_EN V Download Use correct safety practices, appropriate tools (in good and working condition) and suitable personal protective equipment while assembling the 3D printer as risk of personal injury or property damage may result. 3 Product introduction 4 Equipment parameters Basic Parameters 5 Spare parts 6 1. Installation of Z-axis limit switch kit and Z-axis profiles 7 2. Install Z-axis motor kit and t-type screw 8 3. Install pneumatic joint, XE-axis kit and synchronous belt 9 4. Install extrusion kit, Z-axis passive block 10 5. Install X-axis Tensioner 11 6. As mentioned earlier, the plastic feeder assembly mounted on the Ender-3 is a bit impressive. This all-metal feeder assembly is an original MK8 extruder made of aluminum and is a major upgrade to the cheaper plastics that come with most Corey 3D printers.
The Ender 3 Pro comes partially assembled. The base of the printer containing the print bed and the Y axis back and forth control as well as most of the wiring are already assembled before leaving the factory.
To finish putting the printer together will require connecting the remaining parts to the base using less than 2 dozen bolts, and then plugging up a few wires to the various motors. The instructions that come with the printer do not have words, just pictures. Fortunately several decades of assembling Lego kits served me well in figuring out what needed to be done. Once you unpack everything you will need to attach the uprights to the base.
Then you connect the gantry arm to the uprights. The gantry will control the X left and right and Z up and down axis movement. Once that is completed, you only have a few more bolts to tighten up and a couple of wires to plug in and your printer is ready to start printing.
Sorry that I did not take pictures of the assembly process, but the process is straight forward and the images in the instruction manual are easy to understand. I will be linking to a bunch of different 3D print files that I found on Thingiverse. I do not have affiliation with any of these authors except myself lol , I am simply providing access to the files I used to set up my printer.
If you want to use different test prints feel free to look around, there are lots of options. Once the printer is assembled the next vital step is to make sure the bed is level in relation to the print head.
There are 4 knobs, one on each corner of the bed, that will raise and lower that corner. Turning the knob to the left raises the bed towards the print nozzle, turning it to the right lowers the bed. To properly space your bed away from your nozzle, you want them close enough together that when you have a single sheet of paper between the bed and nozzle there should be a slight amount of friction when you try to move the paper.
It is a simple test that prints 3 passes around the perimeter of the bed and then it prints a filled circle at each of the corners as well as the center of the bed. Push the button on the printer after testing each corner the printer says something like “waiting for user” to go on to the next corner.
After stopping at each corner twice, it will print several skirts around the bed you can continue to adjust height as needed as the skirts print , then a disc in each corner and a disc in the middle to check adhesion. There are literally thousands of videos available on youtube regarding 3D printing. I watched a lot of different videos to learn about the printer that I got and how to set it up to get the best results. One of the better youtube channels that I found was Teaching Tech.
Michael does a great job of clearly explaining each test and how making changes to the printer will affect your print results. The arms print at increasing angles of overhang from 10 to 80 degrees. If you look closely at the picture of the backside of the arm you will see that it is not until after 60 degrees that the print starts to get ripply yep..
This will make sure that your extrusion temperature is set correctly so that you are able to bridge sort distances without support without sagging or delamination of the layers. Stringing happens when there is too much pressure in extruder and melted plastic leaks out during movement in free space. There are 3 majors values, which you are going to adjust to remove stringing : retraction, temperature and travel speed.
This tests the ability to make crisp clean corners and tapers. This tests the ability to make fine lines and grooves. Tests the accuracy of the scale of the circles outer and inner diameters of each circle are listed. This test the quality of the print at different temperatures. Every 5 mm the extrusion temperature is reduced by 5 degree Celsius, starting at degrees and going down to degrees.
PLA seems to be a very forgiving material and my tests at different temperatures were very similar, no perceptible change in bridging or detail quality between the different temperature layers. The second photo on this step is an obvious fail using PETG filament that comes from the Heat tower post on Thingiverse. You can clearly see the print quality reduced dramatically at each step the farther away it gets from the degree extrusion temperature.
This test is another gradual change test. This will test the nozzle retraction to prevent stringing. The test starts with a 0mm retraction and each 5mm it increases the nozzle retraction by 2mm. As you can see my test had a lot of stringing at the 0mm and 2mm levels, but once the setting was changed to 4mm retraction there was no more stringing occurring, so I was able to switch my retraction setting default from 8mm to 4mm.
I’m not sure where this file came from originally, There is no individual post for it on Thingiverse. I found it bundled in Teaching Tech’s post on Thingiverse “Ender 3 calibration files”. This is another gradually increasing test print. This time you are increasing the speed that the print head moves to see if there is any degradation in the quality of layers. This will let you assess if you are able to speed up the printer to get your prints completed quicker. This is a two part print, the actual filament guide and a mounting bracket that will fit right into the end of the aluminum top bar of the printer.
The purpose of this guide is to extend the filament out past the end of the printer body so that there is gradual curve to the filament instead of a sharp angle where it enters the filament feeder. This will help to avoid the filament getting kinked and possibly breaking.
This is a protective sleeve that slides over the Z axis movement screw and keep the filament from brushing against the screw as it feeds into the printer. This avoids the filament getting trace amounts of lubricant on it from touching the screw. I chose this particular guide because it slides over the screw and seats firmly in place. There is no need to remove any bolts to mount this guide into place.
There comes a time in every 3D printers life when they need to move the gantry out of the way. The X and Y axis move very easily once you disable the steppers in the menu, but the Z axis required rotating the threaded rod clockwise to elevate the gantry.
It is very inconvenient to rotate the rod by hand since it is directly behind the left upright support of the printer. The easy solution it to have a way to turn the rod from the top. This is a simple scraper holder made by using parts from a few other posts so that it could be relocated to the place I wanted it. This way your scraper is out of the way until you need it. When you need it, you know right where it is.
The intent is to attach the wires to the back of the clips which allows access to the wires. The printer will function perfectly fine without these cables being clipped to the frame, I just think they make everything look more tidy. Since the Ender 3 pro has the bed wiring in a mesh wiring sleeve I only put the chain around the gantry wiring. I may end up printing more chain links at some point and put a cover around the bed wiring too, just for aesthetics, but for now I am happy with just the gantry wires contained in the chain.
Your extruder knob lets you manually move the filament forward and backward between the feeder unit and the print head. And if you are going to have an extruder knob there anyways, why not spruce it up with the addition of Master Yoda. Much like the Scraper holder, This is not a absolute necessity, but it makes it nice to have your tool handy when you need it and stored securely out of the way when you don’t.
I am surprised at how often I am using the caliper, not only to check the things I have printed are in the correct dimension, but also to design new prints when I can’t find what I am looking for online. Anybody can help me on how to reduce or eliminate the initial base being printed using Creality Slicer for Ender 3 Pro? Whenever we print anything, i. PLA Waste Please help, where should we adjust this setting if any?
Thanks and I appreciate it as we just got this first 3D Printer Ender 3 Pro and my kids are supposed to be enjoying it. Reply 10 months ago. I haven’t used creality slicer, I use cura. In cura is an option called “build plate adhesion” and it has the options none, skirt, rim, and raft. What you are describing sounds like a raft. There should be a similar setting in the slicer you are using. Reply 4 months ago. Many thanks for the quick response.
I will try to check that one. I tried using Ultimate Cura too but had also issue that I cannot figure out. Thanks if you can also give me idea on how to preset the extruder axis in the middle without going back home at X-0 Y-0 Z Question 9 months ago.
Now that I have started, I cannot seem to complete a job without the model moving on the glass, and so the print job has to be aborted. The bed is level and nozzle is within mm at all corners and center.
I see some Youtube people speak about an adhesive. Am I to use this? Also, is the glass supposed to be fixed to the mat somehow with the binder clamps? If so, where to put this without getting in the way? Answer 6 months ago.
I cleaned the glass with alcohol and increased the bed temperature to 62 degrees. Seemed to solve my problems with PLA. Answer 8 months ago. Is the glass moving or the print? I’ve been using a glass base for a few months now, on and Ender 3 pro. I use 4 black metal clips.. As for the print itself, I use extra strength hairspray on the glass. Reply 8 months ago. The glass moves forward and back on the X axis The print head moves left to right on the Y axis and up and down on the Z axis.